Two New Hampshire girls hike the 500-mile Camino de Santiago to raise money for women around the world.

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Day Sixteen: Ages to Burgos. March 28, 2013

We got our television last night half an hour before we went to bed. The fellow put it in our room, tried to make it work, failed, then shrugged his shoulders and left.

Again, pilgrims...the San Rafael albergue in Ages - the food is very good and reasonably priced, but I would not sleep here again. Noise travels everywhere and the price for a private room is far too expensive for what you get (also, the television issue was false advertising). So -- it's good for meals but not so good for sleeping.

Out of Ages, to and through Atapuerca (site of prehistoric caves containing earliest hominid remains in Europe), up the hill to Cruceiro...








...and down the (very muddy!) hill toward Burgos...




The Way splits just outside of Burgos..one can take a road to the right of the airport or a muddy field to the left of the airport. We chose the muddy field.


 Eventually, the muddy track rejoins the main path to Burgos. From here, it's mostly pavement and concrete.

Entering Burgos...

 The Catedral. We saw a lot of this area because we got slightly lost while looking for our albergue (we walked right past it while staring in awe at the cathedral)...


The entrance to the municipal albergue (which is just before the cathedral)...



The muni albergue is very modern. Four bunks per cubicle with ample showers and electrical outlets. It holds over a hundred people so there is no "atmosphere," but it is in an excellent part of town and it has everything a pilgrim could need. It's only five Euros a night, too.

We had to say goodbye to our new friends Rosa, Alfonzo, and their son today. We saw them in the albergue; they are taking a bus back home this evening. They were on The Way for Holy Week only - that's a shame, since it would be very nice to keep seeing them all the way to Santiago. Rosa and Alfonzo, if you read this, please know that the girls and I loved every minute of our time with you. If you ever come to the United States, please let us know. Nos casa es sus casa. (I hope that's correct Spanish). Truly, it was an absolute pleasure.

Misc. comments - we had a lot of rain again today, but we felt fine and we walked quickly. Lots of sheep and rolling hills and mud.

My right leg is not happy. All the muscles - every single one of them - are telling me that they would very much like a break, thank you very much. Sage has her first (and I hope only) blister and one of the toes on my left foot is swollen. We will take a short walking day tomorrow (less than ten miles) and see how it goes. Alex's feet and legs are fine.

The girls and I are now used to inexpensive but delicious three-course meals every evening, and I am now used to having two to three glasses of local wine each night. I anticipate a rough homecoming when we get back to NH. We will miss the Spanish food and drink.

My right leg hurts. Badly. All over. I think I mentioned that before, but I'll say it again now. Ow.

We always see a bunch of friendly and familiar faces while walking each day. We keep seeing the same great people over and over. It's nice to say hello to everyone, and to know we will likely see at least some of them here and there all the way to Santiago.

My leg hurts.

We head toward the Meseta tomorrow, so I'm not sure we will have Internet access for a while. The Meseta is a bit of a wilderness area (open crops and fields with few people and tiny towns spaced far apart). I'll write whenever I'm able.

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8 comments:

unstrung said...

Again, I love that you are experiencing the community/familiar faces - sounds so cool.

What is up with the leg? Any clues? Can you describe the pain? Doubtful that I've any useful answers but I'm really curious. Really hope it improves soon.

Annakappa said...

There is a very nice Albergue in Rabe de las Calzadas called Liberanos Domine. I do recommend it! For your toe, you can buy in the pharmacy a sort of tube with solid gel inside and covered in mesh. You cut it to size according to you toe!this stops rubbing and maybe in your case, chaffing where you think you are loosing a toe nail! One tube goes quite a long way! Take it easy with your leg, poor you!

Kate said...

Hi Trish. I just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying your blog. I'm going to be walking the Camino with a friend in a couple of weeks (only 10 days this time), and your pictures and comments are really helpful - also I think it's brilliant that you're doing it with your daughters. Thanks so much!

Bob Young said...

Enjoy the blog; kudos to all three of you. We are just 43 days til we start. Best to you all - take care of that leg.

Bob Young said...

Nice job and it's a big one. Good work to the girls and to you as well. Enjoy following you as we will be covering the same territory in 6 weeks.
Please take care of that leg!

Bob Young said...

Enjoy the blog Trish. Nice job and a good job by the three of you. You've got your hands full for sure. Do take care of that leg. We are 6 wks behind you. Best of Luck.

laurie said...

Trish, I am enjoying your blog a lot. It's so great to be able to see the Camino through the eyes of a 'first timer' - the pictures and comments are a lot of fun to read and enjoy.

About your leg - one thing that is readily available in Spain and not in the US is an anti-inflammatory cream (most common one is called Voltaren but there are others). I know you didn't describe your pain at all, but you should go to a pharmacy and see what they tell you. You may already know this, but pharmacists in Spain do a lot more "hands on" diagnosis and prescription. And if it's an inflammation problem, Voltaren is a good solution!

Buen camino to you and your daughters, you guys are so lucky to be able to do this together. Buen camino, Laurie

Anonymous said...

Hoping to do it next year! Learning so much from you! Buen Camino!!